Drinks of Mexico – Beers

“Beer is proof that God loves us, and wants us to be happy” – Benjamin Franklin

There is nothing more rewarding after a hot summer day spent traipsing up and down roughly cobbled lanes, ransacking boutiques and peering at hoary relics than to relax with an ice cold cerveza.

And nothing could be better suited for the task: modern Mexican beers, with their light crisp character and smooth refreshing taste, are made-to-order for those scorching afternoons. We have Archduke Maximilian of Austria to thank for that.

Now, you may be wondering, “What does an Austrian Archduke have to do with Mexican beer?” It’s a long story.

It all began in the mid 1800’s when Mexico defaulted on the huge national debts it had run up in the years following its independence. Britain, Spain and France, all holding substantial IOU’s, promptly sent troops to occupy Veracruz and demand payment. President Benito Juarez was able to work out terms with Spain and Britain, who, satisfied, ordered their troops home.

But Napoleon III of France was bent on empire building and wanted to add Mexico to his list of French colonies. Using the debts as an excuse, he invaded Mexico and, in 1864, installed his cousin, the Hapsburg Maximilian, as Emperor.

Accompanying Maximilian to his new dominion was a wave of Austrian, German and Swiss immigrants who brought with them modern European brewing techniques and recipes. Prior to the 1860’s Mexican brewers had been using top fermenting yeasts, which work quickly at warm temperatures, to produce dense and rich ales.

The new brewmasters used early forms of refrigeration or conditioning rooms buried in hillsides and bottom fermenting yeasts, which require lower temperatures and longer aging, to produce fresh, thirst-quenching lagers. Mexico’s first lager was produced in 1865 and the style quickly became very popular. (Maximilian, on the other hand, never did: his government was overthrown and he was executed in nearby Querétaro in 1867.)

If the 1860’s revolutionized the taste of Mexican beer, the 1880’s, and the building of Mexico’s railroads, transformed it’s production. As imported ingredients and icemaking equipment became available the small, artisanal breweries that had previously dominated the market were replaced by industrial brewing plants. Mexico’s first large scale brewery (Cervecería Cuauhtémoc) began production in 1890 in Monterrey.

The 1920’s provided a further stimulus and increased recognition for the Mexican brewing industry — the introduction of Prohibition in the United States drove many an American to the border in search of something to drink. As Mexican beer gained a wider audience its popularity skyrocketed. In fact Mexican beer is now so popular that Mexico became the number one beer exporter in the world in 2003, surpassing both Germany and the Netherlands. In 2006, Mexico exported 365 million gallons of beer and generated US $1.2 billion in sales—from the U.S. alone!

So, sit back, take the first refreshing sip of your golden Pacifico lager, crisp Dos Equis pilsner, or distinctive Vienna styled Victoria and give thanks to poor old Max.

Brew Pairings

Mexico may be a lager nation, but they brew many styles of lager.
Ultra light: Sol, Pacifico, Corona, Modelo Especial.
Light-bodied and clean tasting, good with snacks and lighter fare.
Light to Medium: Tecate, Carta Blanca, Dos Equis, Bohemia.
More pronunced malt and hop flavor, pair well with spicy or rich dishes.
Full bodied: Negra Modela, Indio, Leon
Rich and distincive, stand up well to heavier dishes and complex sauces.

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